The "Train to Pakistan" was one of those memorable brief novels written in the fleeting haste of the bloody India-Pakistan partition war set in the 1950's. It was a time when the subcontinent was psychologically ripped into 2 eternally contentious halves after collateral damage of approximately 6 Million lives all swearing by various deities.
The hordes of Muslims who hurriedly crossed over to Pakistan did so mostly for the sake of their religion. Shortly after Pakistan got its name, its founder Muhammad Ali Jinnah in his first presidential addressed to the nation slipped the following quote through amidst the celebrations: -
"You are free; you are free to go to your temples, you are free to go to your mosques or to any other place or worship in this State of Pakistan. You may belong to any religion or caste or creed that has nothing to do with the business of the State".
Half a century ago; actually, not too long ago, Pakistan did have a Center. They were mostly subcontinenters brought up with a British education and more westward leaning. The Radical streak entered the system with the unlawful entry of General Zia Ul Haq and his troupe in the 70's. From then on, his legion of radicals and hard-line generals began to smudge the existing fine print in the cultural establishment. Slowly the base of tolerance began to erode. Blasphemy laws draconian in nature were laid down.
Over the years the state of Kashmir became a central issue to Pakistani politics. This illegitimate intifada against India was supported to largely on a clandestine basis by the ISI (Pakistans Intelligence Agency). This gifted the generals unquestionable power and leverage in the political establishment. They could depose governments at their own whims and fancies.
At the turn of the century, 9/11 happened, and then suddenly Pakistan found itself at the epi-center of America's fight against terrorism. Ordinary Pakistani's had to contend with a military ruler and his regime gunning down their own home-bred extremists in their own backyard, so that Uncle Sam and his children could tuck themselves to sleep miles away. Obviously this did not win America any brownie points with normal Pakistani's.
Then came the last straw. The Deluge in 2010, that washed away 20% of the country's arable land. Homes were drowned, tens of thousands were displaced and are still living on handouts. Whatever aid that came from the International community was painfully slow. To make matters worse, the Islamic Terrorist groups stepped into the muddy waters and started offering aid thereby cementing their position as guardians of the people and isolating the government even further.
By now, the size of the Center in Pakistan had shrunk to the size of a fist. How could ordinary Pakistani's even think of imbibing the virtues of their most dreaded enemies? The Middle was hence won over to the Right, and whatever was left of the liberal camp had to be contended with whispers in their tents.
Last month the Governor of Punjab Province, Salman Taseer, someone who was bold enough to take on the religious right was gunned down in broad daylight. To add insult to injury, hordes of individuals on the streets, including the patrons of freedom in Pakistan, the lawyers, praised the assassin - Hussain Qadri for his deeds. By now, the liberals had gone into hiding.
It is no surprise that tourism in Pakistan had dropped considerably in the past few years. The Swat Valley, known for its marvelous picturesque views is now a barren land plagued by the occasional rattle of the machine-gun. Drones hover deep above their clear skies spying for suspicious activity on the ground.
Yet, in this chaos, more trains and even busses ply to Pakistan from India as hopes rise for a peaceful solution. Tourists however are staying off. As the nation sinks deeper into radicalism and fundamentalism, backpackers will keep-off, holidayers will prefer to see Shalimar gardens on youtube while the children of the soil may begin to see Birmingham as their first home.
First Posted on Technorati
The hordes of Muslims who hurriedly crossed over to Pakistan did so mostly for the sake of their religion. Shortly after Pakistan got its name, its founder Muhammad Ali Jinnah in his first presidential addressed to the nation slipped the following quote through amidst the celebrations: -
"You are free; you are free to go to your temples, you are free to go to your mosques or to any other place or worship in this State of Pakistan. You may belong to any religion or caste or creed that has nothing to do with the business of the State".
Half a century ago; actually, not too long ago, Pakistan did have a Center. They were mostly subcontinenters brought up with a British education and more westward leaning. The Radical streak entered the system with the unlawful entry of General Zia Ul Haq and his troupe in the 70's. From then on, his legion of radicals and hard-line generals began to smudge the existing fine print in the cultural establishment. Slowly the base of tolerance began to erode. Blasphemy laws draconian in nature were laid down.
Over the years the state of Kashmir became a central issue to Pakistani politics. This illegitimate intifada against India was supported to largely on a clandestine basis by the ISI (Pakistans Intelligence Agency). This gifted the generals unquestionable power and leverage in the political establishment. They could depose governments at their own whims and fancies.
At the turn of the century, 9/11 happened, and then suddenly Pakistan found itself at the epi-center of America's fight against terrorism. Ordinary Pakistani's had to contend with a military ruler and his regime gunning down their own home-bred extremists in their own backyard, so that Uncle Sam and his children could tuck themselves to sleep miles away. Obviously this did not win America any brownie points with normal Pakistani's.
Then came the last straw. The Deluge in 2010, that washed away 20% of the country's arable land. Homes were drowned, tens of thousands were displaced and are still living on handouts. Whatever aid that came from the International community was painfully slow. To make matters worse, the Islamic Terrorist groups stepped into the muddy waters and started offering aid thereby cementing their position as guardians of the people and isolating the government even further.
By now, the size of the Center in Pakistan had shrunk to the size of a fist. How could ordinary Pakistani's even think of imbibing the virtues of their most dreaded enemies? The Middle was hence won over to the Right, and whatever was left of the liberal camp had to be contended with whispers in their tents.
Last month the Governor of Punjab Province, Salman Taseer, someone who was bold enough to take on the religious right was gunned down in broad daylight. To add insult to injury, hordes of individuals on the streets, including the patrons of freedom in Pakistan, the lawyers, praised the assassin - Hussain Qadri for his deeds. By now, the liberals had gone into hiding.
It is no surprise that tourism in Pakistan had dropped considerably in the past few years. The Swat Valley, known for its marvelous picturesque views is now a barren land plagued by the occasional rattle of the machine-gun. Drones hover deep above their clear skies spying for suspicious activity on the ground.
Yet, in this chaos, more trains and even busses ply to Pakistan from India as hopes rise for a peaceful solution. Tourists however are staying off. As the nation sinks deeper into radicalism and fundamentalism, backpackers will keep-off, holidayers will prefer to see Shalimar gardens on youtube while the children of the soil may begin to see Birmingham as their first home.
First Posted on Technorati
